Kenya - Maasai Mara National Reserve

by Günther Eichhorn

I spent two days in the Maasai Mara National Reserve. It was a fantastic visit. I saw a lot of animals, including a lot of birds.

I stayed for two nights in the Mara Sopa Lodge, a very comfortable high-class lodge. One negative issue about it was the horrible exchange rate that they gave me when I changed US$$ to Kenyan shilling. They charged about 20% of the total.

The lodge has over 100 units, with two units per hut. Each unit has a large comfortable bedroom, and a clean bathroom with shower.

The food was very good, especially the lunch buffet. Dinner was OK, but not as good as lunch.

I saw a lot of wildlife. Some was the same as during my trip to Kruger National Park in South Africa.

The highlight in Maasai Mara was seeing a Caracal (Caracal caracal). My guide was all excited, he said it had been ten years since he saw one. When I told my guide in Tanzania about it, he was even more excited. He said he had never seen one.

The other highlight was twice seeing a Lioness (Panthera Leo) stalking a Hartebeest (Alcelaphus buselaphus). Both times she didn't succeed, the Hartebeest noticed something and started to move away. When the Hartebeest starts moving away, the lioness gives up, she can't catch it anymore, even though the antelope isn't running, just walking away.

I saw quite a few Lions, several single males, groups of females and males, and in one case a courting couple.

The other predator that I saw is the Spotted Hyena (Crocuta crocuta), but only once.

I also saw some Bat-eared Foxes, but they were too far away, I didn't get a picture.

There were quite a few Maasai Giraffes (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi, sometimes spelled Masai Giraffe) in the reserve.

In particular there were quite a few Blue Wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus) and Grant's Zebra (Equus quagga boehmi)

The Grant's Zebra does not require (but still prefers) short grass to graze on. It eats a wide range of different grasses, preferring young, fresh growth where available, and also browses on leaves and shoots from time to time. A zebra's digestive system works quickly and can extract more protein from the fibrous and poorest plant parts. Thus zebra are less picky in foraging but they do spend much time eating. Only after animals like zebras have cropped and trampled the long top grasses, which are low in protein, do the other grazers like Wildebeests and Thompson's gazelles move in to eat the newly exposed and more nutritional short grasses.

The number of birds was quite fascinating. Among them was the Kori Bustard (Ardeotis kori), the largest bird capable of flight. Males are 110 cm long (3.7 ft) and 60-90 cm (2-3 ft) tall. The heaviest birds can weigh over 20 kg (44 lb).

Large animals

Grant's Zebra (Equus quagga boehmi), Impala male (Aepyceros melampus), and Banded Mongoose (Mungos mungo). (470k) Maasai Giraffes (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi) and Grant's Zebra (Equus quagga). (443k) Thomson's Gazelles (Eudorcas thomsoni, with black stripes), Grant's Gazelle (Nanger granti, facing away), and Ostriches (Struthio camelus). (567k) Banded Mongoose (Mungos mungo). (429k) Warthogs (Phacochoerus africanus). (760k)
Günther's Dik-dik (Madoqua guentheri). (672k) Günther's Dik-dik. (517k) Thomson's Gazelles (Eudorcas thomsoni). They have the prominent black stripe along the belly, and an all-black tail. (591k) Thomson's Gazelle with the black tail. (491k) Thomson's Gazelle female with baby. (631k)
Thomson's Gazelle males sparring. (485k) Thomson's Gazelle male. (501k) Thomson's Gazelle male. (495k) Thomson's Gazelle male. (521k) Grant's Gazelle male (Nanger granti). They lack the black stripe, and the top of the tail is white. (753k)
Grant's Gazelle male in the foreground, and Thomson's Gazelles in the background. (478k) Impala harem (Aepyceros melampus) with one male and a herd of females. I saw harems as small as two females, and as large as more than 100. (723k) Impala males sparring. (466k) Impala male. (485k) Impala male. (443k)
Topi antelope (Damaliscus korrigum). (582k) Close-up of a Topi. (509k) Hartebeests (Alcelaphus buselaphus). (525k) Hartebeest. (489k) Hartebeest. (452k)
Close-up of a Hartebeest. (573k) Blue Wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus). (559k) Blue Wildebeest (396k) Blue Wildebeest babies (603k) Grant's Zebras (Equus quagga) (792k)
Grant's Zebra. (716k) Close-up of Grant's Zebras. (687k) Baby zebras (379k) Maasai Giraffes (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi). Giraffes are the tallest land animals. (664k) Maasai Giraffes. (478k)
Maasai Giraffes. (621k) Maasai Giraffe. (570k) Close-up of Maasai Giraffes. (340k) Close-up of Maasai Giraffe. (329k) Maasai Giraffe with baby giraffe. (499k)
African Buffalo, or Cape Buffalo (Syncerus caffer). It is the third largest animal in Africa (after elephants and rhinoceroses). Due to its aggressive and unpredictable nature, it is quite dangerous. (488k) Bushbaby (I don't know which species). The are feeding it every night, so it is a regular visitor in the lodge. (407k) Vervet Monkey (Chlorocebus pygerythrus). (521k) Olive Baboon (Papio anubis). (724k) Caracal (Caracal caracal). (468k)
Caracal. (490k) Spotted Hyena (Crocuta crocuta). (408k) Female Lion (Panthera Leo). (544k) Male Lion. (574k) Male Lion. (732k)
Close-up of female Lion. (646k) Close-up of male Lion. (629k) Close-up of male Lion. (687k) Lion couple. The female was in heat, so they stayed together and were courting. (630k) Lion couple. (841k)
Lion couple. (836k) Lion couple. (856k) Lion couple showing affection. (679k) Lioness stalking a Hartebeest. The lioness is barely visible in the grass on the far right, just above the center line. (459k) The Hartebeest noticed something and moved away. The Lioness gave up at that point. (379k)

Birds

Weaver bird nests. (350k) Ring Necked Dove (Streptopelia capicola). (450k) White Bellied Go-away Bird (Corythaixoides leucogaster). (578k) Starling (either Hildebrandt's Starling (Lamprotornis hildebrandti) or Superb Starling (Lamprotornis superbus). (446k) Red Capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea). (469k)
Martin (I don't know which species). (646k) Yellow Bishop (Euplectes capensis). (391k) Silverbird (Empidornis semipartitus). (430k) Magpie Shrike (Urolestes melanoleucus). (392k) Lilac-breasted Roller (Coracias caudatus). (402k)
Lilac-breasted Roller in flight. (362k) African Wattled Plover (Vanellus senegallus). (523k) Coqui Francolin (Francolinus coqui). (661k) Glossy ibis (Plegadis falcinellus). (498k) Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris). (934k)
Helmeted Guineafowl. (588k) Close-up of Helmeted Guineafowl. (413k) Southern Ground Hornbill (Bucorvus leadbeateri). (591k) Black Bellied Bustard (Eupodotis melanogaster). (722k) Kori Bustard (Ardeotis kori). This is the largest bird capable of flight. (470k)
Lappet-faced Vulture or Nubian Vultures (Torgos tracheliotos). (497k) Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica regulorum). (479k) Marabou Stork (Leptoptilos crumeniferus). (482k) Tawny Eagle (Aquila rapax). (514k) Martial Eagle (Polemaetus bellicosus). (497k)
Ostrich (Struthio camelus). (502k) Ostrich (571k)

Miscellaneous

View of the Rift Valley east of Maasai Mara. (419k) Inside the main hall of the Mara Sopa Lodge (472k) One of the buildings in the lodge. They were duplexes, with two units per building. (598k) Bedroom in Mara Sopa Lodge. (506k) This was the bus that I was travelling in. The roof can be raised so I had an open view when standing in the bus. (579k)
Open bus on a game drive. (579k) The game drive buses are like locusts, they are swarming all over the National Reserve. (450k) Traffic jam at a lion. (501k) Aloe vera. (484k) Agave americana. (741k)
Sodom's apple (Solanum linnaeanum). (828k) Euphorbia candelabrum. (635k) Euphorbia candelabrum. (764k) Sausage tree (Kigelia africana). (739k) Sausage tree. (517k)
Umbrella acacia (Acacia tortilis). (474k) Acacia branch with vicious thorns. (621k) Whistling acacia (Acacia drepanolobium). The branches have galls about 2.5 cm (1") in diameter. Stinging ants live in these galls. The ants seem to protect the acacia, which doesn't have toxic chemicals to ward off insect pests. When the wind blows over old, abandoned galls, they can act like flutes and produce a whistling sound. (699k) One of the galls with a thorn. (394k) Ants leaving the gall through the access hole. (374k)
Flowering bush. (451k) Hibiscus sp.. (400k) Underground ants nest. (676k) Termite mound. (865k) Lizard. (418k)
Close-up of a lizard. (419k) Gecko, sitting on the outside of the frosted window in the bathroom. (908k) Chameleon. (580k) Close-up of the chameleon, showing the eye sitting on a cone shaped protrusion. The eyes move independently of each other in all directions. (548k)

All pictures are © Günther Eichhorn

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*Grant's Zebra (Equus quagga boehmi), Impala male (Aepyceros melampus), and Banded Mongoose (Mungos mungo). (470k)*	*Maasai Giraffes (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi) and Grant's Zebra (Equus quagga). (443k)*	*Thomson's Gazelles (Eudorcas thomsoni, with black stripes), Grant's Gazelle (Nanger granti, facing away), and Ostriches (Struthio camelus). (567k)*	*Banded Mongoose (Mungos mungo). (429k)*	*Warthogs (Phacochoerus africanus). (760k)*
*Günther's Dik-dik (Madoqua guentheri). (672k)*	Günther's Dik-dik. (517k)	*Thomson's Gazelles (Eudorcas thomsoni). They have the prominent black stripe along the belly, and an all-black tail. (591k)*	Thomson's Gazelle with the black tail. (491k)	Thomson's Gazelle female with baby. (631k)
Thomson's Gazelle males sparring. (485k)	Thomson's Gazelle male. (501k)	Thomson's Gazelle male. (495k)	Thomson's Gazelle male. (521k)	*Grant's Gazelle male (Nanger granti). They lack the black stripe, and the top of the tail is white. (753k)*
Grant's Gazelle male in the foreground, and Thomson's Gazelles in the background. (478k)	*Impala harem (Aepyceros melampus) with one male and a herd of females. I saw harems as small as two females, and as large as more than 100. (723k)*	Impala males sparring. (466k)	Impala male. (485k)	Impala male. (443k)
*Topi antelope (Damaliscus korrigum). (582k)*	Close-up of a Topi. (509k)	*Hartebeests (Alcelaphus buselaphus). (525k)*	Hartebeest. (489k)	Hartebeest. (452k)
Close-up of a Hartebeest. (573k)	*Blue Wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus). (559k)*	Blue Wildebeest (396k)	Blue Wildebeest babies (603k)	*Grant's Zebras (Equus quagga) (792k)*
Grant's Zebra. (716k)	Close-up of Grant's Zebras. (687k)	Baby zebras (379k)	*Maasai Giraffes (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi). Giraffes are the tallest land animals. (664k)*	Maasai Giraffes. (478k)
Maasai Giraffes. (621k)	Maasai Giraffe. (570k)	Close-up of Maasai Giraffes. (340k)	Close-up of Maasai Giraffe. (329k)	Maasai Giraffe with baby giraffe. (499k)
African Buffalo, or Cape Buffalo (Syncerus caffer). It is the third largest animal in Africa (after elephants and rhinoceroses). Due to its aggressive and unpredictable nature, it is quite dangerous. (488k)	Bushbaby (I don't know which species). The are feeding it every night, so it is a regular visitor in the lodge. (407k)	*Vervet Monkey (Chlorocebus pygerythrus). (521k)*	*Olive Baboon (Papio anubis). (724k)*	*Caracal (Caracal caracal). (468k)*
Caracal. (490k)	*Spotted Hyena (Crocuta crocuta). (408k)*	*Female Lion (Panthera Leo). (544k)*	Male Lion. (574k)	Male Lion. (732k)
Close-up of female Lion. (646k)	Close-up of male Lion. (629k)	Close-up of male Lion. (687k)	Lion couple. The female was in heat, so they stayed together and were courting. (630k)	Lion couple. (841k)
Lion couple. (836k)	Lion couple. (856k)	Lion couple showing affection. (679k)	Lioness stalking a Hartebeest. The lioness is barely visible in the grass on the far right, just above the center line. (459k)	The Hartebeest noticed something and moved away. The Lioness gave up at that point. (379k)

Weaver bird nests. (350k)	*Ring Necked Dove (Streptopelia capicola). (450k)*	*White Bellied Go-away Bird (Corythaixoides leucogaster). (578k)*	*Starling (either Hildebrandt's Starling (Lamprotornis hildebrandti) or Superb Starling (Lamprotornis superbus). (446k)*	*Red Capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea). (469k)*
Martin (I don't know which species). (646k)	*Yellow Bishop (Euplectes capensis). (391k)*	*Silverbird (Empidornis semipartitus). (430k)*	*Magpie Shrike (Urolestes melanoleucus). (392k)*	*Lilac-breasted Roller (Coracias caudatus). (402k)*
Lilac-breasted Roller in flight. (362k)	*African Wattled Plover (Vanellus senegallus). (523k)*	*Coqui Francolin (Francolinus coqui). (661k)*	*Glossy ibis (Plegadis falcinellus). (498k)*	*Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris). (934k)*
Helmeted Guineafowl. (588k)	Close-up of Helmeted Guineafowl. (413k)	*Southern Ground Hornbill (Bucorvus leadbeateri). (591k)*	*Black Bellied Bustard (Eupodotis melanogaster). (722k)*	*Kori Bustard (Ardeotis kori). This is the largest bird capable of flight. (470k)*
*Lappet-faced Vulture or Nubian Vultures (Torgos tracheliotos). (497k)*	*Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica regulorum). (479k)*	*Marabou Stork (Leptoptilos crumeniferus). (482k)*	*Tawny Eagle (Aquila rapax). (514k)*	*Martial Eagle (Polemaetus bellicosus). (497k)*
*Ostrich (Struthio camelus). (502k)*	Ostrich (571k)

View of the Rift Valley east of Maasai Mara. (419k)	Inside the main hall of the Mara Sopa Lodge (472k)	One of the buildings in the lodge. They were duplexes, with two units per building. (598k)	Bedroom in Mara Sopa Lodge. (506k)	This was the bus that I was travelling in. The roof can be raised so I had an open view when standing in the bus. (579k)
Open bus on a game drive. (579k)	The game drive buses are like locusts, they are swarming all over the National Reserve. (450k)	Traffic jam at a lion. (501k)	Aloe vera. (484k)	Agave americana. (741k)
*Sodom's apple (Solanum linnaeanum). (828k)*	Euphorbia candelabrum. (635k)	Euphorbia candelabrum. (764k)	*Sausage tree (Kigelia africana). (739k)*	Sausage tree. (517k)
*Umbrella acacia (Acacia tortilis). (474k)*	Acacia branch with vicious thorns. (621k)	Whistling acacia (Acacia drepanolobium). The branches have galls about 2.5 cm (1") in diameter. Stinging ants live in these galls. The ants seem to protect the acacia, which doesn't have toxic chemicals to ward off insect pests. When the wind blows over old, abandoned galls, they can act like flutes and produce a whistling sound. (699k)	One of the galls with a thorn. (394k)	Ants leaving the gall through the access hole. (374k)
Flowering bush. (451k)	Hibiscus sp.. (400k)	Underground ants nest. (676k)	Termite mound. (865k)	Lizard. (418k)
Close-up of a lizard. (419k)	Gecko, sitting on the outside of the frosted window in the bathroom. (908k)	Chameleon. (580k)	Close-up of the chameleon, showing the eye sitting on a cone shaped protrusion. The eyes move independently of each other in all directions. (548k)